Wisconsin students in hyderabad

Prasad A. Chodavarapu (prasad@kodak.com)
Fri, 15 Nov 1996 16:15:30 -0500


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Commentary          The Rediff Special / Ratna Rao Shekar

Capital Buzz        'I now know exactly how the Queen of England
                    feels'
The Rediff
Interview           Alex Greteim, Linda Ohman, Brita Sauer,   [Image]
                    Marjorie Krieg, Melissa Malley, Zoe Timms
Insight             are undergraduates from American colleges now in
                    Hyderabad learning Telugu, and enthusiastic about
The Rediff          all things Andhra like gongura pachaddi,
Poll                Rajakeeya kathalu of the writer Olga, and Telugu
                    films like Prema Desam and Bharateeyudu. This at
Miscellanea         a time when children in India think it is not
                    important to be familiar with their mother tongue
Crystal Ball        and their parents are even less insistent about
                    instilling any pride in their native culture.
Click Here
                    "Desa baashalandu Telugu lessa?" asks Lisa
The Rediff          Mitchell, the co-ordinator of the programme,
Special             quoting the Vijayanagar king, Sri Krishna
                    Devaraya. "Telugu is the most lyrical, most
Meanwhile...        consistent language," remarks Alex who has also
                    studied German, Persian and Urdu.
Arena
                    Alex, Linda, Zoe, and the others are third year
                    students of colleges in various parts of America
                    who have chosen to learn Telugu, and spend a year
                    in Hyderabad, under the University of Wisconsin's
                    year in India programme. The university offers
                    similar language programmes in Hindi and Tamil,
                    and those wanting to learn Hindi go to Varanasi,
                    and Tamil to Madurai.

                    Even among the handful of universities in America
                    that give students the option to study Indian
                    languages, a majority concentrate on languages
                    such as Bengali, Hindi, Sanskrit and Tamil.
                    Except the University of Wisconsin, no other
                    university offers the students the choice of
                    learning Telugu.

                     [Image]"The emphasis back home is all the time
                            on North Indian languages and cultures.
                    There is very little of translated work in
                    Telugu. During the course of research for my
                    Master's work on socio-linguistics I had come to
                    CIEFL in Hyderabad for two weeks. I had gone to
                    Lucknow and Madurai as well. But somehow
                    Hyderabad stayed in my mind. I thought the city
                    had a nice blend of Islamic and South Indian
                    cultures. I was hooked. I wanted to come back,
                    but I realised if I didn't know the language
                    there was no way I could get into the culture of
                    the people I wanted to know," says Lisa who has
                    studied Hindi and Tamil as well, and has lived in
                    India as a researcher on and off for the past
                    decade or so.

                    Lisa, a doctoral student in cultural anthropology
                    at the University of Washington, Seattle, was in
                    Hyderabad the whole of last year, studying Telugu
                    with Vimala, who also teaches the language to all
                    the American students currently in Hyderabad.
                    Lisa not only took Telugu lessons but taped
                    interviews in Telugu with local tailors and
                    vegetable vendors, and saw several Telugu films
                    in a day, (especially the mythologicals made
                    famous by N T Rama Rao), all in an effort to
                    imbibe popular culture.

                    She even gave a talk on the importance of
                    learning Telugu in Telugu for 15 whole minutes at
                    a local school!

                    There is a growing awareness even in America,
                    Lisa says, on the importance of learning a
                    language other than English. But then French,
                    Spanish, even Portuguese one would think would be
                    the natural options, and it is quite
                    incomprehensible how these American students had
                    even heard of Telugu or how this will be useful
                    to them late in life.

                    Some say they had heard of Telugu from professors
                    who had been here, others say it was more the
                    desire to spend a year in India than anything
                    else that made them want to learn an Indian
                    language. "Now that I'm learning Telugu, I like
                    it," says Marjorie simply.

                    When they announced they were taking a    [Image]
                    year off to go to Hyderabad, friends and
                    families reacted with a little more than shock.
                    Linda, who is Swedish, was asked by her parents
                    if she couldn't think of doing something else to
                    earn credits for college work. "Whatever you've
                    heard about India, whatever you've read about the
                    country does not prepare you for the diversity
                    here.All stereotypes stand challenged," says
                    Alex.

                    There is nothing that can be said of India that
                    can be held as an absolute truth. Why talk in
                    terms of absolute truths when no two days in
                    Hyderabad are ever alike. One day if they find
                    the autorickshaws going on one side of the road,
                    there is no guarantee that they will go on the
                    same side the next day. Or the shower. They are
                    never sure if they will be hot water on any given
                    morning.

                    To these youngsters from America, the familiar
                    world has become strange, and everything they
                    have known has been turned upside down. They have
                    never seen anything as strange as the street
                    numbers as in Hyderabad. Lisa has given the
                    address of the house she is staying in to a
                    friend she is expecting in Hyderabad soon. She is
                    not sure if her friend will ever find 5-6-20/3.
                    Alex says if he was given a wish, he would wish
                    for one day in Hyderabad when nothing unexpected
                    happens.

                    But then education is all about learning and
                    coping. There was a time when Melissa would stand
                    politely in a line while everyone else pushed
                    past her to the counters at the post office. Now,
                    she and the others have figured out many things.
                    That the vendors in Hyderabad have one price for
                    the Americans, and another for the rest of
                    Hyderabad.

                     [Image]"I caught a fruit seller quoting two
                            rupees less on mangoes to another person
                    in Telugu, and when I brought it to his notice,
                    he was so shocked I knew Telugu, that he
                    immediately reduced the price," recalls Lisa. "We
                    know the minimum autorickshaw fare is Rs 5.80,"
                    says Melissa firmly.

                    Autorickshaw drivers, however, continue to be a
                    difficult lot. One disgruntled auto driver told
                    them, there was no use learning Telugu, as the
                    Andhra Pradesh chief minister had declared there
                    were no jobs in the state anymore.

                    But not everyone is discouraging of their efforts
                    to learn Telugu and integrate with life around
                    them. When they were travelling from Madras to
                    Hyderabad sometime ago, one bus conductor was so
                    pleased to hear that they were in Hyderabad to
                    learn Telugu, that he stopped by at a wayside
                    cafe, and ordered that they be given tea and
                    coffee on the house!

                    "It's actually the urban elite who are most
                    shocked to hear we are learning Telugu," says
                    Lisa who, incidentally, has read a lot of Telugu
                    literature.

                    The girls don't like they way they are stared at
                    all the time. But sometimes their very
                    foreign-ness works to their advantage. When they
                    went around the city during the Ganesh Chaturthi
                    festival, at one location they were allowed to
                    pass through to the very sanctum, their
                    photographs taken, and announcements made over
                    the public address system that the Americans were
                    with them. "I now know exactly how the Queen of
                    England feels," giggles Linda.

                    While a good part of the programme --     [Image]
                    thrice a week classes -- is devoted to
                    learning Telugu, the emphasis is on working in
                    other areas they are interested in. Melissa, who
                    is interested in public health, plans on getting
                    involved with rural health groups, while Zoe, who
                    is interested in environmental issues, is working
                    on a project on how use of the Musi river has
                    changed over the years.

                    Alex, who is interested in languages, is learning
                    Hindi and Urdu and is being trained to sing
                    ghazals. Linda and Melissa are learning the art
                    of applying mehendi. During the Divali holidays,
                    they will live with families in the Krishna
                    district. "Here we are each other's comfort
                    zones. But there for a week we'll have to cope on
                    our own," says Melissa.

                    Next May, they will go home. Some of them may
                    return to India, after college, to pursue their
                    areas of interest, as Lisa has. Others may just
                    go back to the US, with Telugu ringing in their
                    ears, and the pageantry of the Charminar in their
                    eyes. Whatever it is, just as their preconceived
                    notions of India have changed they too have
                    helped change the popular image of the American
                    abroad.

                    "People often think we live in mansions back
                    home. They are surprised to hear that we work to
                    pay our way through college, and do things like
                    waiting in restaurants and washing dishes," says
                    Linda. "Life in America is not at all like
                    Beverely Hills 90210, we tell people."

                    "Programmes such as these bring the world a
                    little closer. Each of us learns to understand
                    the other's culture a little better," remarks
                    Lisa, the programme co-ordinator. The others nod
                    their assent. But why is it, they ask puzzled, do
                    Telugu movie heroines wear western clothes when
                    they are rebellious, and a sari the moment they
                    get married?

                    Photographs: B Narsing Rao

                                                              [Image]
                                                   The Rediff Special
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