a'vakooralu - a'va ja'ti kooralu
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Mustard Curries - Mustard Family Vegetables
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Earlier generation a'mdhrulu came up with one of the tastiest
ingredients in our curries (kooralu) - the a'va (mustard). Mustard seeds
are generally used in pOpulu or pOpu (ta'limpu). Mustard seed paste
(ground after imbibition or soaking) alongwith pulla and sometimes bellam,
makes certain curries more delecious and these curries are called "pulla
a'va kooralu". Everyone knows why the Telugu pickles are called
"a'vaka'ya". People of certain regions in Andhra (East), use mustard oil
(a'va noone) for cooking purposes also (of course one has to develop a
taste for it). The mustard family products we eat comprise of
"mustard" seeds in general. Mustard family, botanically speaking is
called "Cruciferae" or "Brassicaceae". Plants viz. mustard (Brassica
nigra), nalla a'va'lu (Brassica campestris), mullangi (also called sotti
dumpa, Raphanus sativus), cauliflower, cabbage (Brassica oleracea),
broccoli, and brussels sprouts belong to the mustard family (Cruciferae or
Brassicaceae). Cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels sprouts are varieties
of cabbage (Brassica oleracea). The distribution of plants belonging to
the mustard family is comparatively greater in the Western hemisphere than
in the Eastern counterpart. It is interesting to know that certain
communities in Andhra dESa eat the greens (tender leafy part) of the
mustard (a'va'lu mokka). Due to the economic importance, rapid growth,
and high yields, the other members (like cauliflower, brussels sprouts,
cabbage) of the mustard family have been introduced into India. In South
India, these are usually cultivated from October to February as they
require mild temperatures to grow. But the Indian insect and nematode
pest find these Western mustard family vegetables as great feed and munch
on them. In order to fight those pests, the farmers in Andhra (India) use
greater quantities of agrochemicals. That is immaterial but these Western
mustard vegetables satisfy the need for vegetables in India (during
sometime of the year).
Well! We find these cruciferous (another way of calling these
mustard family members) all around the year in the super markets here.
The eye-catching ones are cauliflower, broccoli, and brussels sprouts.
The less attractive one is the underground root (dumpa type).
Occassionally one can come across the tiny white radish (a variety of
mullangi). Again one can get red radish (another variety of mullangi,
Raphanus sativus) from the grocery store any time of the year. The big
mullangi can be obtained from certain stores only. It is called "Daikon"
(probably it is the Chinese name). If one adds mullangi (tiny or big or
red radish) to sambar or pappu pulusu, then the actual aroma of that dish
can be enjoyed. A friend of mine used to say "sa'mba'r with out
benDaka'ya, mulakka'Da, and mullangi is useless and tastes like kuDiti".
kuDiti is the liquid animal feed mixture which contains paddy husk, some
grains, and water. Cauliflower curry is common throughout India and among
several Andhra families in the US. Some a'mdhrulu prepare raita with red
radish. Very few a'ndhrulu have developed taste for broccoli and brussels
sprouts. Cabbage is also eaten by majority of a'ndhrulu. Cabbage paccaDi
is an addition to a'mdhrula paccaLLu.
Why is all the above narrated? Disease and death frighten the
human. One disease that always follows several humans is cancer. Cancer
prevention is an enigma and subject of debate. Very recently broccoli was
reccommended as a cancer prevention agent especially as an anticancer
dietrary ingredient. Broccoli contains certain antineoplastic agents.
A lot of people started eating broccoli and some of those who hated
broccoli started to adapt to eating broccoli. Interestingly all the
cruciferous vegetables (mustard family vegetables) contain several
anticancer compounds. In addition to the anticancer substances, these
cruciferous vegetables contain sulfur-containing natural products which
help build the metabolic machinery. Do you know why it smells awful if
one leaves raita (radish) or mullangi sa'mba'r or rotten cauliflower or
rotten cabbage or cabbage puccaDi outside for several days? The sulfur
compunds oxidize (metabolized by the food contaminating bacteria), and the
gases like hydrogen sulfide are evolved. Hydrogen sulfide is an excellent
human deterrant and it smells bad. Some of the sulfur-containing
compounds in these cruciferous (mustard family) vegetables are excellent
antioxidants. These vegetables also contain flavonoids or polyphenols
which act as antioxidants (like vitamin C or vitamin E or vitamin A).
Intake of naturally occurring vitamins (in their natural state as found in
vegetables) is preferred. Some other ingredients of the vegetables in an
unknown way either facilitate the uptake or promote the biological action
of these vitamins while eaten in the natural form (like broccoli,
cauliflower, radish etc).
Apart from eating mullangi or cauliflower, how one can eat
broccoli or brussels sprouts or red radish.
1) Broccoli koora: This is a recipe from my son's cook book.
This is called "allam - pacci mirapaka'ya - kottimiiri broccoli
koora". Steam or boil (in a small amount of water) broccoli
until it gets tender and soft. Use the hard parts also like the
pedicel (stalk). Cut thin slices of the stalk. One may peel off
the hard tissue from the stalk so that it cooks faster.
Blend a little bit of allam (2 two inch pieces), 4-6 green
hot peppers (oriental peppers are better), and half a bunch of
kottimmera in a blender (prepare a paste). Prpare pOpu in a
another dish (use a couple of gummiDi vaDiya'lu if you have and
minappappu also). Add the cooked broccoli to it. Add the allam
- pacci mirapaka'ya - kottimiiri paste to it. Add desirable
salt. Heat it for a few minutes after thorough mixing on low
heat. This is prepared with one broccoli head.
2) Mullangi or Red Radish vooravEyaDam:
This is a way of eating fresh mullangi or red radish. After
thorough washing and peeling, cut very thin slices of radish.
(1 bag of red radish or 1 bunch of red radish or 1 lb of
mullangi, the daikon). Cut 5-6 green hot peppers (again Oriental
hot peppers are better. Otherwise one can use jallapenos.)
In a dish, mix radish slices with the hot pepper bits, a pinch of
turmeric, desired salt, and lemon juice (fresh from 1 lime). Mix
it. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Eat it afterwards!
3) Brussels Sprouts
Steam cook the sprouts. Fry a few onions. Mix them with any
masala or popu. Add a pinch of turmeric and salt.
Quick, easy and tasty and above all healthy.
Also one can make Brussels sprouts paccaDi just like the
cabbage paccaDi.
One of my Madrasi friend adds Brussels sprouts (longitudinally
cut into half) to Sambar. Tastes great!
4) Some times you may see mustard greens (leafy) in the store.
These leafy mustards are very tasty and have a great aroma.
One can prepare soup or pappu with these mustard greens.
Now onwards, in addition to cauliflower and cabbage, eat radish, mullangi,
Brussels sprouts, and broccoli. This is food for good health.
P.S.: Why is the family called "Cruciferae"? As the flower has a
cruciform (cross-shaped) corolla!
---PALANA
More next time!!!!!!!!!!!
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POSTED TO NURTURE TELUGU CULTURE IN NORTH AMERICA.
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PALANA
CAS
COLUMBUS
OH
DISCLAIMER: Opinions expressed above are not those of the CAS.